Visiting the Other Side of the Comarca

During my first year in Panama, my next door neighbor Juan worked as a nurse in a community only accessible by boat, through the Caribbean Sea and up a river, about 9 hours away by public transport.  Because of its distance he only came home once a month to visit his wife and kids.  He told me one day he would take me to see this beautiful yet dangerous place.  During his vacation month, Juan put a lot of effort into my house construction, but since then we really haven’t worked together much.

Earlier this year Juan was able to transfer to a local health clinic and now lives permanently at home.  However he kept his promise, and we traveled to his former workplace for a weekend.  He told me to be ready at 4 am on Friday.

Juan and me on bridge arriving to town

We walked down to the Interamerican Highway in the dark and caught the bus to the city of David.  From there we took another bus to Chiriqui Grande and waited for the boat to leave with the missing boat driver.

Health center open 24 hours a day

Several sodas and snacks later (that’s how Panamanians kill time), we passed through the Caribbean and up a river into the jungle.  It was bizarre to arrive at the town with sidewalks and electricity lines that is part of the same Comarca (Indian reservation) where I live.  The latrine-looking structure had a flush toilet and shower inside!  

Juan and I had a chill couple of days in Kankintu.  Honestly, we have nothing in common, and conversation was quite sparse, but I have become quite at peace with silence and light conversation.  We stayed with and ate with his former co-worker, and walked to the neighboring town up river.  In the town there is a university, two-story high school, and lots of nice stilted wood houses.  We toured the hospital where he used to work, as well as the baby recovery center for malnourished kids. 

With medical team at baby recovery center

Then, we headed back home, because Juan had work on Monday.  Back at his house, we shared the photos on my camera from our trip with his parents, wife, and kids, none of whom ever want to travel on a boat.  I had a good time getting to know another part of Panama in the company of my neighbor.